Turn on the Food Network any weekday between 4 pm and 7 pm. Here's what you're likely to see: women preparing meals in a home kitchen. Five women each host a show in the hours in which (presumably) viewers are at home and thinking about what's for dinner that night. By the looks of it, you'd think every woman in America cooks dinner every night. . . or is supposed to. What exactly are we looking at and integrating into our beliefs when we watch these cooking shows?
I have a few guesses.
Let's meet our cast of characters. First up is Sandra Lee. Semi Homemade with Sandra Lee is all about taking shortcuts; for each recipe she combines 70% ready-made products with the other 30% of the ingredients prepared by hand. The best part about her show is that she ends every episode with booze.
Next is Giada di Laurentis. In her show, Everyday Italian, di Laurentis cooks (what else?) Italian food. She has a lot of male fans.
Fancy foods (with French names) are Ina Garten's forte. Barefoot Contessa is set the Hamptons, where Garten entertains in her picture-perfect farmhouse kitchen. She likes to make labor-intensive recipes with expensive ingredients.
Paula Deen dishes out generous helpings of Southern comfort food in her programs. Paula is infamous for starting every recipe with a stick of butter and for making funny faces when she tastes her dishes.
The afternoon cooking block ends with an hour of Rachael Ray's 30 Minute Meals. Ray has been a fixture on Food Network for over a decade. And despite her inordinate perkiness and unique phraseology (she coined such terms as EVOO for extra virgin olive oil); her popularity only increases.
So what are the prevailing trends among these shows? The most obvious, of course, are issues of gender and space -- or gendered space. All of these programs tell a story from the same point of view: the home kitchen is the place in which women must cook. According to these shows, womanliness and domesticity are inextricable. And for whom do the cook? Their husbands; all the women are married (except Lee, a divorcee since 2007, who allegedly has been dating the same man since the divorce). Preparing food may be viewed as an act of subservience to men.
Another strong undercurrent in the shows is linking food with desire and sensuality. Watching shows like this will whet one appetite or another. That connection is easy to make just by looking at how the women dress; it's pretty clear that this is eye candy for admirers of the decolletage. But I believe that there are subtler forms of desire that the shows address as well.
These women seemingly "have it all": a beautiful home, a family, a successful career, and enough time each night to make a fabulous dinner to boot. It's as if they provide a model for female viewers to emulate. Is this the way of life that the viewer (male or female) is supposed to desire?
And what did you think of their posh kitchens? Clearly these ladies are living the good life. . . maybe even the American Dream. All of the kitchens evoke a sense of wealth, which is sometimes combined with a WASPy sensibility (as is the case with Sandra Lee). The back stories on Lee and Paula Deen are very rags to riches; they both were the sole providers for their families of young children and came into their fortunes by ingenuity. Similarly, Rachael Ray came into her profession by a lot of hard work and more than a bit of dumb luck; she never trained as a chef. Their shows give the audience a hope of upward mobility, and reiterate the promise of the American Dream.
Just keep watching the Food Network and sooner or later you'll find something (or rather, someone) to suit your tastes.
Look at me-- I've watched Rachael Ray so much that my initial annoyance with her quirks has evolved into full blown idolatry. Not only do I watch and enjoy her daytime show every chance I get, but I also want her to be my BFF.
Hmm, looks like I'm complicit in my subjugation.
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3 comments:
Thank you for bringing Sandra Lee into this discussion. Cocktail time! Excuse me while I pour myself this gigantic pitcher of vodka. OK, better now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhAOYtSB5SE&eurl=http://www.facebook.com/s.php?sid=cf98a99430f0adc1d9a7a68c39ed0ae0&refurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fs.ph
I apologize for this unsightly link—turns out in blogger comments you have to manually type in the html code to embed and hyperlink and whatnot--but if you click on it you will be treated to the most amazing. Christmas Tree. Decorating. Tip. Ever.
I don’t really watch the Food Network much (except when Sandy is on), but I understand there are numerous male chefs on the network as well. It would be interesting to run a comparison between the set aesthetics and menus between the popular male personalities, Bobby Flay or whomever, and Rach Ray et all. There is certainly gender embedded in specific domestic activities: baking skews female; grilling skews male, etc. Could we investigate that? What are the characteristics of female and male chefs and of their products?
As for the veneer of plush, upper-class perfection presented by all these cooking shows, I see that as reflective of the entire TV medium. In her book “Born to Buy”—a book that I really like, recommend and probably reference to excess—Juliet B. Schor describes a process of compression whereby settings/circumstances that would be recognized in “real life” as upper-class are presented as middle class or “average” on television (Schor, 2004)—leading to a deluded, distorted perception of what is average, leading to materialism, spending beyond one’s means, cavalier uses of credit, oh the list could go on and on.
So yes, that is how your kitchen “should” look. And yes, that is how your Roasted Tomato Bisque with Cheesy Twists should taste. Sandra Lee may be a raging lush, and her menu of “20-minute meals” may be packed with preservatives and sodium, but at least she’s willing to admit—even tacitly, with every gulp of Stepford-strength screwdriver—that she’d rather be doing something else.
Hmm...feminist hero?
Oh my gosh, Aurora, sign me up! I want to be beautiful and rich and married and wear super-duper sexy sweaters. Alas, I’ve been watching the Food Network for years and if I were to compare myself to any of these fab women, I would not have much in common. Not that that’s a bad thing, but I bet there are a lot of women out there who are aspiring to be (perfection)Paula Deans or Rachael Rays, or Sandra Lees—the have-it-all gals. I personally have my sights set on Nigella Lawson—man! She’s hot and smart and wickedly drawn, a virtual Jessica Rabbit in a Snow White palette.
like Annie, I will also be right back—my martini needs refilling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aViVg2kOiUA&feature=related
oh, so much better…I don’t think I care anymore,should I?
“The bourgeois sees in his wife a mere instrument of production. He hears that the instruments of production are to be exploited in common, and, naturally, can come to no other conclusion than that the lot of being common to all will likewise fall to the woman.” (Rius on Marx, p.119)
Here, Marx draws a quick and dirty conclusion about women even bourgeois women who are not working in the sweat shops like the proletariat who support the middle class still wear a capitalist ball and chain. There doesn’t seem to be any freedom for women—any choice. Today, a cornucopia of cable TV celebrities show/demonstrate how to remain productive (an appendage of cap) and as Aurora points out, it’s all about “gendered space.” In order to be useful, you need stay in your place aka the home and be a good, productive wife: cook for your man/husband. And if you don’t have one of those yet (a man), here’s a recipe that will sure enuff git y’all one! (Paula Dean accent).
I remember really enjoying The Barefoot Contessa for about a month, and then I started observing Ina—her amazing home in the Hamptons, her convertible BMW, the off the cuff comments about travel and possessions, and yes, the “expensive ingredients”—it was insidious and off putting. Bam! It hit me, she was addressing 3% of America. I moved on to “The Naked Chef” he was hot too—another limey like Nigella who was riding the innovative wave of English cuisine. Julia Child’s genuine and educated but not at all uppity attitude about food and the good life, and certainly, her appearance is in sharp contract to the fetching women of TV cuisine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY6GXVJbNtY&feature=related
A conversation with a friend revealed that maybe a woman’s role, her domain is in the kitchen and always has been the hearth, the place where everyone comes to get nourished and loved and protected—it’s safe sanctuary where the woman is in charge! He’s not familiar with the Food Network and I assured him that if he saw these shows, he would realize (quickly) that it’s Mad Men’s Women in HD.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJlQ8llFo8k&feature=related all 3
Not much has changed since Queen for a Day—now it’s the Food Network that provides a kaleidoscope of choices for the little woman deciding what to make for dinner tonight.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queen_for_a_Day
Aurora,
This has been by far the most entertainingly creative video blog I've read/watched! To Lee's revolutionary way of mixing a Frapacinno with vodka to di Laurentis' Grand Canyon-sized collection of male viewers (including my own dad- EW), these women of the kitchen have cooking nailed down to a SCIENCE.
And that is their role, and they are all woman, and they all fit so perfectly into the stereotypical housewife role. But, we do have variety, as these women are all of different ages and shapes and sizes, so the housewives at home cannot feel left out and will always have a comrade to look up to onscreen and to mimmic their cooking, and maybe their own selves to.
Michele is right on to bring Marx into this discussion. This channel fits the bill of women in a Marxism light. "The wife became the first domestic servant, pushed out out of participation in social production," (Rius, 120). No where are these women seen interacting with the outside world. They are restricted to their own private spheres, and to cross the threshold into society would not make sense for the show, and also from a Marxist stance.
Aurora only chooses to focus on women, but Annie also raises the question of the men's shows on the Food Network. They don't seem to be as popular, due to the lack of eye candy, and it just seems to be a weird reversal of roles, if looked at from a Marxist perspective. The dynamics are off: according to Rius, "in the family, he is the bourgeois; the wife represents the proletariat," (120). A stay at home husband that mans the kitchen is just not politically correct, nor acceptable.
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